Dolce & Gabbana Women’s Spring/Summer 2026—“Sleepy See-Through”
Grace Without Energy—Dolce & Gabbana’s Sleepy See-Through Season
Follow along with the collection here: Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana Context
Dolce & Gabbana has long embodied Sicilian heritage, feminine confidence, and theatrical allure. Lace, religious iconography, and the tension between sensuality and restraint are central to the brand’s DNA. Since 1985, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have turned Italian opulence into an international language of confidence and glamour.
This season, the duo wrote: “Feminine embraces masculinity. Tailoring softens into casual ease, heritage opens to the pulse of the present" during Milan's September 2025 Fashion Week.
On paper, it reads as a promise of duality—strength and sensuality. The interpretation of masculine sharpness softened by romantic charm. But in execution, that promise was more whisper than declaration.
The Venue + Atmosphere
The show opened to a subtle Italian-acoustic tune—almost Western in rhythm—giving the space a curious cultural fusion. Models glided slowly down the runway, poised but noticeably slouched, dressed to embody the collection’s soft-tailoring concept.
The stage, however, worked against them. A short and narrow venue with a center partition that obscured full visibility left half the audience with limited views.
Lighting, too, lacked dimension. While dim illumination can create intimacy, it must carry direction and rhythm. Here, it merely dulled the experience. We were, unfortunately, met with a flat, unchanging glow that left the garments somewhat lifeless.
Collection Overview
The intent was clear: merge the structure of men’s tailoring with the delicacy of lace and leather—the feminine reclaiming symbols of masculine prestige. But the execution often felt like an unfocused collage rather than a deliberate fusion.
Slouchy silhouettes dominated, pairing business-casual forms with sensual materials. There were glimpses of charm, but the show rarely found its stride between boldness and beauty.
Favorite Look #1 [8/66]
A double-breasted suit jacket in a sumptuous red, glistening with thin beadwork, embodied the show’s concept best. “Business on top, pleasure on the bottom.” The striped pants—light gray with red lines—extended the idea, but a more defined waist could have elevated it further.
The dark red purse worked tonally but lacked contrast; a dark olive envelope clutch would have been more editorial. Still, this look spoke—a woman wearing it would not be mistaken for anyone’s assistant. She’s the boss.
Favorite Look #2 [12/66]
A buttercream long blazer layered over a lace high-neck top and paired with loose blue-and-white pinstriped trousers stood out for its structure and ease. The brown furry satchel and matching slippers added eccentric softness—playful, yet commanding.
The tailoring was particularly strong here: crisp stitching, thoughtful hemming, and restraint in design. It’s the kind of look that quietly announces power.
The Audience’s ‘Artistic’ Piece
A blazer embroidered with gold and red details over blue-and-white striped pants felt conceptually rich but visually incoherent. The elements were individually exquisite—the blazer screamed craftsmanship—but their pairing diluted the message.
Had the pants been full gold with subtle blue elements, the look might have reached feminine sharpness through intentional discord. Instead, it landed in confusion. The top and the bottom simply did not communicate effectively. Same story, different chapters.
Weak Look #1 [40/66]
Cheetah print—the eternal offender. Even setting bias aside, this look was directionless. A red-and-white striped top and shorts clashed violently with the print, and a teal clutch made matters worse.
The teal clutch provides a lovely fresh color; but only added a layer of confusion with this look.
The lace top was most likely used to tie the arrangement together; but, unfortunately, stood out like a sore thumb.
Editor's Note: Lace, by nature, reveals the emotion beneath the garment—the human nature of desire and love. Hiding it beneath chaotic layering... defeats its purpose.
As a possible rework: imagine a teal blazer (same teal as the clutch) with bold, thick white stripes, lined and detailed in cheetah print—a spirited yet cohesive Spring-Summer statement.
Weak Look #2 [49/66]
A droopy brown stretch sweater over floral lace—the kind of mismatched idea that says “I don’t get it.” Oversized can be chic; this was simply careless. The garment looked inexpensive, ill-proportioned, and emotionally disengaged from the rest of the collection.
Editor's Note: I quite literally was in shock when I saw this. Obviously, the idea and theme was still 'on-brand' for the show; but, this piece being "Dolce & Gabbana" simply left me questioning Domenico & Stefano's full intention.
Favorite Look #3 [32/66]
A full black lace ensemble paired with black hosiery heels, a crisp bob haircut, and—unexpectedly—a blue-and-white pinstripe shirt scrunched over a small white furry purse. This is where the show’s philosophy clicked.
It balanced disruption and restraint. The contradiction worked precisely because it didn’t overthink itself. This is the kind of simple yet intelligent styling the industry needs more of—collaborative contrast that doesn’t just follow the “idea” of fashion but feels it.
Music With No Momentum
Throughout the show, the soundtrack alternated between pop-infused Italian vocals and slower ballads—and yet, like the collection, it lacked transition.
Music is a runway’s emotional script. For this show, it reflects the intention of the story, but rather drags the execution. When the rhythm circled back to the opening sound, it felt like déjà vu—the same message without progression.
As the show went on, Dolce & Gabbana's iconic crosses appeared, lace returned in repetition, and black overtook the palette—nearly three-quarters of the looks shared the same mood. Instead of climax, we got consistency verging on monotony.
Final Thoughts
Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2026 felt like an attempt at introspection that fell into inertia. The brand’s signature codes—lace, sensual tailoring, Italian romance—were present, but the energy was not.
Meryl Streep and Stanley Tucci sat front row, visibly unimpressed—and perhaps understandably so. The show embodied the idea of refinement but not the feeling of it.
A collection that presented beauty in interpretation, but spoke too softly when it needed to sing.
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